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DISCLAIMER: I'm no dermatologist. I wrote this months ago; just have a courage to post it now lol.
Everything I wrote is based from my experience, knowledge from fellow redditors on AsianBeauty, SkincareAddiction, and A LOT of research. Always remember - YMMV (Your Mileage May Vary) - what worked for others might not work for you and vice-versa. There's no universal treatment in acne or other skin concerns. Skincare is a process of trial and error. Take this post with a grain of salt.
Also, this is a lengthy post so if you don't have any patience to read this wall of text, shoo! (Ay ang hard haha). Seriously, this post is mostly composed of studies, anecdotes, and other references to support my claims. AYAW NATIN NG FAKE NEWS 'DI BA?
For clarification, I'm far from that Korean, dewy skin. I have suffered from acne vulgaris for years, but I'm confident that my face improved a lot. But this post wouldn't focus with my acne journey. I want this to be a general skincare guide. There may be some personal thoughts here and there but that would be it.
Lastly, I apologize if along the way I may have bent the rules of grammar. I'm just accustomed to explaining things in English. I might repeatedly edit this post if I could bring myself to thoroughly proofread this.
While I know and appreciate that dermatologists know what products or practices are best for us especially our skin, I'm one of those enthusiasts who believe that it is much better if you know your OWN skin. For example, over my skincare journey I found out that my skin can't handle SLS but I can tolerate SLES, products with malunggay/ben oil break me out, etc. And these are findings a dermatologist can't just provide to me.
You'll probably get fed up with my skincare one liner - YMMV (Your Mileage May vary) - but this is crucial concept to be familiarized with. Everyone's skin is different. In a simple context - we have different sensitivity to cosmetic ingredients. YMMV but the components of our skin are all the same, just varies on how much you have vs how much they have.
Let me provide you with some science. I'll try to explain this simply (as the saying goes, know and befriend your enemy), tho of course jargon can't be avoided.
Our skin is composed of three layers - dermis, hypodermis, and epidermis. The most important of the three is the epidermis - the outer layer of the skin. Epidermis consists of 15-20 layers of cells which is mostly 95% of keratinocytes. They create proteins, with Keratin being the most major protein. They are made in the basal (deepest) layer of the epidermis - Stratum basale/stratum germinativum. Keratinoctyes present here undergo division and differentiation, half of it will remain in this basal layer, while the other half will further go upward into the upper layers until they reached the outermost layer of the epidermis - the stratum corneum (SC). Keratinocytes in the SC are now keratinized or cornified, this is why they are also called Corneocytes. These keratinocytes in the SC or corneocytes are now dead skin cells, which regularly slough away (also called desquamation) and again replaced by Keratinocytes from the deeper layers. They are tightly bound together, forming the SC barrier (sometimes called epidermal barrier, moisture barrier), which plays an important role for a healthy skin.[1,2]
This entire process of keratinization takes up to 4 weeks or approximately 28 days.
Other cells present in the epidermis are:[1,3]
  • Melanocytes - they protect our skin from harmful uv rays through their pigment called melanin. This pigment is black in nature, that's why when our skin is excessively exposed to sun, such cells produce more melanin. More melanin = darker spot. Heh! Don't blame melanocytes; blame yourself for not applying sunscreen. :P
  • Langerhans’ Cells - they uptake the antigens in our skin and carry them to the nearest lymph node. Specialized in fighting germs.
  • Merkel Cells - enables us to sense pressure because of their sensory function.
Notice how I focused with the Epidermis 'cause this is where skin diseases usually arise. I hope I haven't lost you yet. Skin actually involves complicated processes; the one I mentioned above is just a simplified version.
Going back to stratum corneum (SC). SC is the most superficial layer of epidermis. It is also called 'horny layer' because stratum corneum is a latin term which literally translates to horny layer.
And now the SC barrier. SC barrier is usually described through the Bricks and Mortar model. Construction of SC barrier resembles a wall in which layered corneocytes stand for bricks. Desmosomes keep them intact. Intercellular lipids are the cement which stand for mortar.[2,4]
These bricks main job is the SC's hydration. This is because of the presence of natural moisturizing factors (NMFs). NMFs provide moisture retention because of its humectant property. Humectant bonds with water molecules to increase water content in the skin. Some compounds also have the ability to attract moisture from the environment. NMFs are comprised of amino acids, carboxylic pyrrolidone acid, lactic acid, urea, glucose, and mineral ions.[5-7]
The mortar, intercellular lipids, are mostly ceramides or sphingolipids (50%), remaining would be 25% of cholesterol, and 15% of free fatty acids. Together, they strengthen the permeability barrier, warding off external irritants; help in water retention and flux.[8]
Also notice how important hydration (i.e. water content) in our epidermis, specifically in stratum corneum.
Hold on, I'm not trying to sound imverysmart here. I assure you such information are significant in skincare. As we delve in further, you'll understand why.
So how do you measure skin barrier function? It is through transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and water content of the stratum corneum, and skin surface pH. TEWL and water content are evidently inversely proportional - increased TEWL lowers water content; decreased TEWL more water content. TEWL is the total amount of water vapor loss through skin when there is no sweat gland activity. TEWL is measured by ServoMed Evaporimeter (VERY EXPENSIVE!).[9-12]
Impaired barrier function has been known to lead in skin conditions and diseases such as xerosis (dryness), rosacea, atopic dermatitis (eczema), and acne vulgaris.[10,13-15] It has been observed that patients with acne vulgaris have low amount of ceramides due to the diminished water barrier content, measured by TEWL. AV patients have higher sebum production and greater TEWL.[16]
Oh, okay. Eh 'di ikaw na maraming alam, OP. Bakit hindi mo na lang kami diretsuhin sa acne treatments?!
Aba aba, easyhan mo lang. This is one of my pet peeves. We want to have a healthy skin but we don't really educate ourselves with how our skin works, how a specific product works - how it really impacts our skin. We just slather a random product on our skin and just hope for the best. Well, that 'best' doesn't come easily. We tend to follow unsolicited advice from people who are blessed with good genes and have a healthy skin to begin with.
And if ever there's someone here, reading, who has a clear skin to die for, please stop giving UNSOLICITED advice. You're just bringing more attention to the person that they have problematic skin. Of course they know it, but rubbing it to them that they need to treat it isn't actually helpful at all.
'Kay, going back.
Let me state my side why when someone asks advice from me, I don't advise them to see dermatologist ASAP. Emphasis on ASAP. I don't want to sound like I'm discouraging people to visit dermatologist.
Insert situation where a patient went to dermatologist because of acne vulgaris
A dermatologist would surely prescribe acne treatments. These can be topical or oral antibiotics; oral Vitamin A derivative like Accutane; topical Vitamin A derivatives (also known as retinoids) like Tretinoin, Epiduo, Differin (Adapelene); benzoyl peroxide; salycilic acid; azelaic acid; and many more. (YOU SEE, THERE ARE MANY TREATMENTS AVAILABLE AND YET WE STILL SUFFER FROM AV). They would also insist you to use their products or prescribe OTC products, having a basic routine to support a treatment they chose for you.
By then, the patient already have a simple routine of cleanser, (toner), moisturizer, (and sunscreen) + maybe a topical treatment like Epiduo. The dermatologist advised the patient to use all of these consistently.
Problems? MANY. First, there's no guarantee that the basic routine of cleanser, moisturizer, etc will work for your skin. Why? You can be sensitive to certain ingredient/s present on them, thus leading to acne cosmetica (breakouts from cosmetic products). Second, how the hell will you know if it's the cleanser, the toner, or the moisturizer that's causing the problem if you introduced them all at once? Third, treatments like Epiduo encourage faster skin cells turnover rate which can lead to purging (surfacing clogged pores A.K.A. it's gonna get worse before it gets better), how will you know if those added acne are due to purging and not acne cosmetica?
Fourth, these treatments can compromise our skin barrier. Benzoyl peroxide (BP) can cause irritant dermatitis and can result to TEWL.[17] Topical retinoids can also cause dermatitis. In fact, there's a term called retinoid dermatitis - erythema (redness), scaling (dryness), and desquamation. [18] In short, no matter how powerful these treatments are, they can also worsen your skin concerns.
In addition, certain medications used to treat AV can cause alterations in SC integrity and function, either via the active ingredient, the vehicle, or both, which can result in signs and symptoms of cutaneous irritation. . Providing specific skin care recommendations, including product selection and proper use, is an important part of the management of AV and may adjunctively augment the efficacy of topical medications in reducing acne lesions.[19]
Yes, the patient's derma is right in providing a skin care products to help a treatment. But he's wrong for suggesting to use them all at once.
We have to keep in mind that a problematic skin has an impaired barrier function present to different conditions as what stated above.[10,13-15] So damaging the skin barrier further would just worsen everything.
SO what do you need to do, then? BABY your skin! Moisturize it. Strengthen your SC barrier.
But how? By having a dedicated skincare routine! This is what I like with AsianBeauty. ABers focus on strengthening their skin barrier rather than treating any skin conditions right away. Try posting once on their daily help thread. "Hi! I'm new to skincare and I need suggestions to treat my acne." They wouldn't say "Hello! Acids like chemical exfoliants are effective on treating acne, try..." Their answers would probably be, "What's your current routine? I suggest having a basic routine first before proceeding with powerful treatments."
Because it makes sense! Having a dedicated skincare routine without treatment is as powerful as focusing on treatment itself.[20,21]
Fun fact: Even a proper skincare routine has been known to be effective in aiding the skin barrier function of infants.[22,23] I can now foresee what would be the first product I would buy for my son/daughter - a moisturizer! Haha, kidding.
Believe me, when I started having a routine of cleanser + moisturizer + sunscreen every day, the number of my acne reduced significantly. But of course I reached the plateau where I needed to incorporate treatments on my routine, because having a solid routine + a powerful treatment would lead you far![24-26]
A simple skincare routine shall compose of a gentle cleanser, a moisturizer, a broad-spectrum sunscreen.
Before we go further to skincare routine let me just provide additional notes to consider.
YMMV (Your Mileage May Vary), duh. I know I mentioned this numerous times and will still do. It is important to instill this concept. You shouldn't be surprised that a certain, popular product didn't work for you. Or a product in which some told you to stay away from, worked for you. That's one of the mysteries of this world, Babe. When they said we are created in God's image and likeness, they meant different gods.
We have different sensitivities to ingredients present in a specific product.
"People can even be allergic to commonly used products. It’s not that ingredients in these are unsafe – it’s the way the body reacts to them can differ from person to person." Dr Chris Flower, Director-General of CTPA and a Chartered Biologist & Toxicologist[27]
When a product says hypoallergenic doesn't guarantee one won't have reaction to it. After all, hypo means less than so just lesser chance of allergic reaction.
Same goes with non-comedogenic (won't clog your pores). This is just one of those marketing strategies to make you buy that product. Okay, I might have gone overboard. That is still a useful guideline 'cause they could mean that the manufacturers tested their products and consider them good fit for people with oily, acne-prone skin. Don't get so worked up with this when you buy products tho. "Okay, this one doesn't say non-comedogenic so I might get acne here". No, not that mindset. Remember what I said? YMMV. You won't know until you test it out yourself.
FDA has a list of common claims and labels used in cosmetics.
These are:
  • "Alcohol Free"
  • “Cosmeceutical”
  • "Cruelty Free"/"Not Tested on Animals"
  • Hypoallergenic
  • Organic
As you can see, non-comedogenic is not recognized by FDA.
One reason is the comedogenicity of some ingredients were tested on rabbit ears. NOT ON HUMANS.
Related reading
From time to time, I'm gonna use cosdna.com as a reference to products' ingredients. It's a helpful site for identifying if a specific ingredient is highly comedogenic or an irritant. It does sound contradicting to my previous statement but even CosDNA said that
Our data source include[sic] international experts, institutions and publications. If any the three column is blank, this meas[sic] there is no data (not indicate[sic] [whether] the ingredient is safe or unsafe). We want to remind our user, the effect of cosmetics depends on concentration, quality, process and mutual influence of ingredients. The skin condition of each person are[sic] different (even constantly changing).
Nevertheless, it still a good site to track ingredients of a particular product. If for example two products broke you out or gave you adverse reactions, you can look and compare the ingredients present on these products, and pinpoint what could be the culprit.
That being said, Don't hesitate to stop using a product that is not working for you. If it's making things worse, that just means it's not meant for you.
Ahh maybe this product is just drawing these pimples out. No, that is skin purging and purging, only happens when you're using exfoliants (BHA, AHA,etc), acids, and/or vitamin A topical derivatives which increase skin's cells turnover rate like retinoids.
This is intended specifically to men. Taking care of your skin doesn't make you less masculine. Using at least three facial products won't hurt your manliness. Please stop that ongoing machismo.
Those products labeled for men are just marketing bullshits.
I'm not saying that there's no skin difference between men and women. In fact, males have been reported to have larger pore size and higher sebum production.[28] Even the skin's pH (which will be tackled later) of females are lower compared to males.[29] Males also have greater skin thickness than females.[30]. Males also experience more intense pigmentation after sun exposure and retain it for a longer time than females.[31].
Let's have an example.
Nivea for men deep cleansing face wash
Aqua, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium myreth sulfate, Decyl Glucoside, Panthenol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Alcohol Denat, PEG-90 GLYCERYL ISOSTEARATE, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Sodium Acrylates/c10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Polyquaternium-10, Laureth-2, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Benzophenone-4, Parfum
Ingredients in bold are surfactants and an alcohol. What I have observed from cleansers that are marketed for men is its supposedly "deep cleansing" characteristic. This can be seen from these surfactants. I included alcohol because aside from these sulfates, this is also the culprit why it feel like such products really cleanses your face. When in reality, it just leaves your face squeaky clean and DRY.
What I also observed is the presence of Benzophenone-4, why the hell would you put a sunscreen ingredient in a facial wash??
Now, knowing that men's skin has larger pores and tends to be more oily, do these ingredients really help with a male skin? Does science view surfactants as ingredients for men?
Don't get me started with the other one - Sikreto ng mga Gwapo. Sikreto pero binunyag, h'wag ako. Okay, I'm not saying avoid this product and the like. If it works for you, then okay.
Another example:
Pond's Men Energy Charge All-in-One Moisturizer
Wow what's with these "men" products that use "Energy" "Fresh" "Sport", "Cool"? To make them more masculine? lol
Water, Dimethicone, Alcohol Denat, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Caprylic/Capri Triglyceride, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Perfume, DMDM Hydantoin, Linoleamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Disodium EDTA, Propylene Glycol, Stearic Acid, BHT, Menthol, Sodium PCA, Triethanolamine, Niacinamide, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Coffea Arabica (Coffee) Seed Extract, Coffea Robusta Seed Extract
Another thing I observed is that these manufacturers of supposedly "for men" products might be inclined to the idea that men prefer putting products that absorb easily, almost feel like nothing has been applied to the skin, have a cooling effect.
These are evident with Alcohol Denat high up in the ingredients list. Alcohol, an astringent, makes the product absorb easily and can be irritating to some. The presence of Menthol, which is another astringent, is just for added fragrance and cooling sensation. And how can these be beneficial to male's skin?
It's not that this particular moisturizer is not beneficial. Key ingredients such as Niacinamide - for skin brightening and sebum regulation, Coffea Arabica (Coffee) Seed Extract, Coffea Robusta Seed Extract - for anti aging and photoaged skin, are also present. The thing is these ingredients are way below the list. Perfume even listed ahead of them, in which sensitive skin peeps should be wary of.
Okay let me stop criticizing these products. The takeaway is - skincare is not sexist! The for men label is just a marketing ploy, tricking you into thinking that their products are specially formulated for men.

A skincare routine that doesn't compromise our SC barrier

If you're going to visit AsianBeauty you might stumbled with the pH level of the cleanser they are using. Apparently, pH level is significant in choosing a cleanser to have a healthy skin barrier.
The pH (Potential of Hydrogen / Power of Hydrogen) is a measure of the acidity or alkalinity of an aqueous solution.
For reference. The pH scale ranges from 0-14. The pH of distilled water is 7, this is neutral. Any solution with a pH below 7 is an acid and any solution with a pH above 7 is an alkali (or base).
The skin itself does not really have a pH. When they talk about the pH of the skin, they are referring to the pH of a very thin, naturally secreted, moist layer caused by normal secretions from sweat glands (sudoriferous glands), sebaceous glands (which secrete an oily substance called sebum), and the breakdown of fatty acids on the skin by good bacteria that live on our skin. Together these secretions create the Acid Mantle.
Yes, remember that I mentioned that skin's pH surface is one of the measures of skin barrier function?[12] Well, it's gonna be relevant here!
Skin's surface pH is said to be ranging from 4 to 6. Some papers say anywhere from 4 to 7 pH level. Having an average of 4.7, 5.5.[32,33] The consensus is that our skin's pH is acidic to slightly/mildly acidic. This pH level helps maintain the strength and cohesiveness of the skin.[34]
Why is it important to maintain this level of acidity tho? The formation of barrier lipids is observed to be delayed when the pH level is 7.4 or alkaline in nature.[35] Hope you still remember the SC barrier's mortar.[8] Lipid formation and metabolism require an acidic pH; alterations contribute to the SC barrier's integrity which may lead to different skin diseases such as atopic dermatitis (Eczema), irritant contact dermatitis, ichthyosis, acne vulgaris, and Candida albicans infection.[36]
Also, maintaining the skin's acidity doesn't disrupt the bacterial flora's (good bacteria) colonization, present on our skin. Whereas, reaching an alkaline pH promotes the dispersal of these bacteria.[37] One example is the growth of Propionibacterium acnes (P Acnes), a commensal bacterium found naturally on our skin, which is also one of the causes of acne vulgaris. P Acnes grow much better in an acidic environment, reaching alkaline pH can increase the number of P Acnes.[38] Aside from these, alkaline pH skin can show severe irritation to ingredients such as sodium lauryl sulfate (a harsh detergent that we will talk about later).[39]
It has also been observed that patients with acne vulgaris tend to have a higher skin pH in comparison to those who a normal skin. Majority of acne occurences are related to high skin pH. Further increase of this pH mirrors a state of SC instability.[40]
What increases our skin's pH? There are certain factors for that. Endogenous factors include: Skin moisture, sweat, sebum, anatomic site, genetic predisposition, race, age, atopic skin disease. Exogenous factors include: Soaps, detergents, cosmetic products, occlusive dressings, skin irritants, and topical antibiotics.[41] We'll focus on the latter, with cleansers being the most significant.
The use of high pH cleansers can disrupt the acid mantle by increasing its acidic pH.[37,40] A study showed that using an acidic cleanser reduced the number of acne and caused little irritation to acne-prone patients, as oppose to the group who used a soap bar (with a relatively high pH) - number of acne increased.[42]
Ideally, cleansers should have a pH of around 5.5.[43] Avoid using soap bars, not only because almost all of them are alkaline (high pH)[44] , they are also harsh and bring greatest changes to the barrier. Opt for liquid facial cleansers instead.[45]
Ever wondered why some of feminine washes are formulated with acidic pH? (i.e. pH Care). ;)
How about the recently hyped Aztec Healing Clay Mask? Why is it combined with Apple Cider Vinegar (ACV)? Aztec's main ingredient is calcium bentonite clay which has a whooping pH level of 8 to 9.7! ACV has a pH level 3 to 5 - a perfect pH-neutralizer to bring down the bentonite clay's pH to an optimum skin pH level.
You might want to avoid cleansers with SLS
Probably the most common surfuctant is sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) also known as sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS). It is one of the cheap foaming agents commonly found on soaps, shampoos, toothpaste, etc. It is responsible for the foam or the rich lather you notice when you use such products.[46]
Surfuctants can penetrate into skin and compromise SC barrier function.[47] SLS, among other surfuctants, can increase the SC's TEWL and can cause inflammation.[48,49] Ceramides, one of the skin's lipids[8], has been observed to decrease when skin is in contact with SLS.[50]
It is also listed by CosDNA, having a comedogenic rating of 5.
So TL;DR just choose a cleanser that is low pH and doesn't contain SLS then? NOT REALLY but IDEALLY yes. What I meant is there's a reason why some have nice skin despite using cleansers with high pH. It's just that if you can avoid the drawbacks, then why not? But then again YMMV.
BUT if semantics aside, what you really need to consider is to make sure you're using a GENTLE cleanser. Your skin shouldn't feel tight after cleansing. Not drying. Not that "squeaky clean" feeling as what others coin. Just because you're oily, you're gonna tolerate that. No. Remember that I mentioned that sebum is one of the components of acid mantle? That squeaky clean feeling is removing this fatty layer which is important part of skin's natural protection, and stripping natural oils instead of excess oils.
Avoid overwashing, too. Cleanse for a maximum of two times only. Some even like to just splash plain water in the morning. I know it's tempting to wash your face, especially for oily skin, but that's just a temporary fix. After a few minutes, you'll notice that oils will start to build up again. You might even get acne detergicans from overwashing. If it bothers you that much, I recommend having an oil face blotter instead which only removes excess oils. Like this one from Clean & Clear
I'm gonna list some IDEAL facial washes you can choose from. If I missed other ones, especially LOCAL cleansers or easily available, please do comment.
[Human Heart Nature] Facial Washes
Months ago, I asked Human Heart Nature through their page the pH levels of their various cleansers. They were pretty responsive. Listing them down.
Personally,I prefer the Nourishing Facial Wash. It does what a cleanser should do - gentle cleansing. You might ask why not the Acne Defense Facial Wash since I have oily acne-prone skin type? My understanding is cleanser should only cleanse not treat your acne with acne-fighting ingredients. It's because cleanser is not meant to stay on our skin for a few minutes, thus such ingredients would not really contribute to acne. But if it works for some, go! If you want to try these facial washes, each of these has a small variant for a cheap price. Perfect for testing before committing to full sized bottles.
Keep in mind that the surfuctants on these cleansers are not strong and little to no emulsifier present, thus you might not notice a rich foam or lather but that doesn't mean it's not doing it's job. Don't use a huge blob just to force a lather. These are also not fragrance-free.
[Celeteque Dermoscience] Hydration Facial Wash
Quoting the product's description:
It has mild cleansing agents and a special combination of moisturizers that gently yet effectively clean without drying your skin.
And according to one redditor who used digital pH meter to test the pH level of different cleansers, this one has a pH of 5.5! Source
Has SLES - a milder version of SLS. I do like this one tho even my mom and my lil sis. Fragrance-free.
[Sebamed] Facial Cleansers
Has two variants:
  • for oily and combination skin
    Soap-free facial cleanser with the pH value of 5.5 of healthy skin to remove excess sebum and aid the skin achieving lipid balance of oily and combination skin
  • for normal to dry skin
    Soap-free facial cleanser with the pH value of 5.5 of healthy skin to support and maintain the moisture and lipid balance of normal to dry skin
The cleansers look promising. I haven't tried them out tho.
[Belo Essentials] Facial Washes
  • Pore Minimizing Facial Wash
For smooth and radiant complexion, start with Belo Essentials Pore Minimizing Face Wash that tightens pores and whitens your skin in just 7 days! This soap-free, gentle cleanser contains Glutathione, Kojic Acid, and Gigawhite to whiten and skin vitamins to moisturize, revitalizing your skin with a radiant glow. Expertly formulated for oily skin.
It has a pH level of 5.3.
  • Skin Hydrating Facial Wash
Your first step to whiter skin, Belo Essentials Skin Hydrating Face Wash deeply cleanses without over-drying and whitens your skin in just 7 days! This soap-free, nourishing cleanser is infused with Glutathione, Kojic Acid, and Gigawhite to whiten and skin vitamins to moisturize, revealing clearer and whiter skin. Expertly formulated for normal to dry skin.
It has a pH level of 5.4.
Personal thoughts: The "whitens your skin in just 7 days" seems bogus. You can't just "whiten" your skin for that span. And expecting that from a cleanser? Nah. Anyway, if you're looking for a cleanser that's no-frills, these are not for you. They have tons of ingredients present.
[Safeguard] Derma Sense Facial Cleanser Sensitive Variant
gently cleanses easily irritable skin with its mild, unscented formula. It removes dirt, impurities and excess oil, while maintaining your skin's natural layer. Dermatologically tested, DERMA SENSE brings professional care right to you
Also pH-balanced. I freaking want to try this one because it's well loved by fellow redditors here, but it's always out of stock! Yes, if a product is labeled for sensitive skin, I always prefer it because of their clean ingredients list (no fragrance, additives,etc), so less chance of breaking me out.
[Himalaya] Purifying Neem Face Wash
Specially formulated to give you clear, problem free skin, a soap-free, daily use face wash gel that cleanses your skin by removing excess oil and impurities without over-drying. Neem, well-known for its purifying and antibacterial properties, kills problem-causing bacteria. Combined with Turmeric, it helps control acne and pimples leaving your skin soft, clear, refreshed and problem-free.
According to some redditors it has a pH level of 5.5.
[Cetaphil] Gentle Skin Cleanser
a mild, non-irritating formulation that soothes skin as it cleans. In fact, it's gentle enough for a baby's delicate skin. Designed specifically to work for all skin types, it is a simple, yet highly effective way to care for your skin.
This one has SLS. But my best friend uses this one and she really likes it! She said it's like putting a lotion on her face. Unfortunately, this broke me out. I can't handle SLS. It is also popular on AB and SCA.
If you can tolerate SLS, this is a perfect cleanser for you. Very short ingredients list. But I've read somewhere this has a pH of around 6.7. Not alkaline so it's kinda good nevertheless.
This is probably the most vital part of skincare. Moisturizers can help with our SC barrier function if proper ingredients are used. From TEWL reduction, skin lipids' restoration, and other skin rejuvenation benefits.[51]
All skin types need moisturizer. Yes, that is contrary to the popular belief that oily skin doesn't need moisturizer. You just need to find a moisturizer that will suit your needs. I presume you already know what your skin type is. If still not, I suggest reading this informative post
Skin types vary in different measures but the most common would be: Normal (please step out, jk), Oily, Dry, Combination, and Sensitive. (Paula's Choice recognizes that everyone has sensitive skin).
There are different types/components/classes/properties of moisturizers. These are humectants, emolients, occlusives, and constituents of natural moisturizing factoessential proteins.[52,53]
Humectants, as mentioned earlier,[6] attract water from two sources - from the dermis into the epidermis and in humid conditions from the environment. In short, they are responsible for hydration! However, humectants are a double-edged sword. They increase TEWL too by enhancing water absorption from the dermis into the epidermis where it is easily lost to the environment.[53] In simplest words, because humectans increased the water content, the skin now have enough water so the rest just evaporates! For this reason, humectants are best combined with occlusives.
Some ingredients that act as a humectant:[54,55]
  • Glycerol/Glycerin
This is the most common humectant. In fact, it is the second most frequently used cosmetic ingredient, next to water, documented through the FDA’s Voluntary Cosmetic Reporting Program.[56] Glycerin is a skin-replenishing and restoring ingredient, meaning it is a substance found naturally in skin, helping to establish normal balance and hydration.[57]
  • Hyaluronic Acid (HA) or hyaluronan/Sodium Hyaluronate
They are not actually the same. Sodium Hyaluronate is derived from Hyaluronic Acid but they still function the same.[58] It is also present on our body and most abundant in our skin, which accounts for 50% of our body’s total HA level.[59,60] It can hold 1000 times its water weight![61] This makes it a superstar ingredient in skin's hydration and even in skin aging.[62-64]
  • Propylene Glycol(PG) and Butylene Glycol (BG)
I've been seeing these ingredients mostly from sheet masks, which is pretty logical. PG and BG, not only a humectant, but can also act as an enhancer. They help active ingredients penetrate the skin.[65,66] So from a few minutes a sheet mask stayed from your face, the ingredients present penetrated better on your skin; thus faster result (i.e. brightening). There are also studies concerning that PG is skin-sentisizing (can cause adverse reactions from repeated exposure).[67-69] But the consensus seemed to be PG is safe to use in cosmetics.[65] If anything, PG should be used in low concentrations[69] just like other humectants.[55]
  • Panthenol (Vitamin B5)
Panthenol, in long-term use, significantly improved the moisture level and decreased TEWL of the skin.[70,71] It is incredibly useful in wound healing, too.[72]
  • Urea
Insert biased praises in this ingredient. I just recently discovered this ingredient and I'm already in love. Urea? EWW. Don't worry it's a different urea when used in cosmetics. We are talking about hydroxyethyl urea. As you've read earlier, Urea is one of the natural moisturizing factors present in our skin.[7]
Apparently, Urea is a well-known ingredient in treating xerosis (dry skin).[73-75] As it turns out, it can also be beneficial to other skin types! Who said only dry skin needs that hydration? Urea, like other humectants, can increase the hydration and water-binding capacity of the horny layer.[76,77] It reduces TEWL and the irritant reactions when skin is exposed to SLS.[78,79]
This sexy ingredient has also been observed to have a keratolytic property![80,81] Keratolytic means the agent that assists keratolysis - "the softening and shedding of the horny outer layer of the skin".[82] In other words, it helps with the desquamation of keratinocytes in the SC or corneocytes; or in more simpler term: exfoliation. Fear not, it gently exfoliates compare to active chemical exfoliants. The fun doesn't stop as Urea can also enhance the penetration of other topical ingredients.[81,83,84]
Occlusives sit on the skin, creating a physical barrier, blocking the TEWL in the SC. This is the reason why humectants are paired with occlusives. The former draws water onto the skin, while the latter traps this water. The most popular occlusive ingredient is petrolatum or petroleum jelly. At a minimum concentration of 5%, it can reduce TEWL by more than 98%![54]
But you all know how greasy a petroleum jelly is, right? Petroleum Jelly (Vaseline), was previously labeled as highly comedogenic after testing on rabbit's ear. But this has been busted by a study that tested it on acne-prone patients. They concluded that greasiness doesn't equate with comedogenicity! "The admonition for acne patients to seek "oil-free" skin care products has no scientific merit with regard to comedogenicity."[85] If a product is making you oily because of its nature, doesn't make it highly comedogenic. But of course -. There was also an issue that occlusives futher impair barrier function but it has been proven that occlusives, like petrolatum, even accelerated barrier recovery.[86] I can attest to that. Petroleum jelly really helped when I overexfoliated my skin.
Because of aesthetic reasons, lighter occlusives came into picture like lanolin, mineral oil, and silicones which only reduce TEWL by 20–30%.[54]
Just look at how our fellow redditors are fond of occlusives A.K.A. S L U G L I F E
I didn't choose the Slug life, the Slug life chose me.
To all the slugs out there, you win
Emolients fill the gap between the layered corneocytes, smoothing the skin. This is the sticky feeling you notice on your moisturizer.
References used:
Edit: I have to divide this into parts cause of characters restriction.
submitted by ivanilla16 to beautytalkph

Giving Evolutionary Biologists the Finger! KRAB Zinc Finger Domains and Violations of the Law of Large Numbers (

I will point out a pattern in biology that violates the law of large numbers, and thus suggests Intelligent Design or at the very least a statistical miracle.
The evolutionary explanation of these patterns shows a severe lack of critical thinking and appreciation science from first principles of physics, chemistry, and mathematics, and even basic common sense.
This is an amino acid sequence in the ZNF136 protein
This short sequence is called a Zinc Finger which in 3D looks like this:
Wiki gives a description of the function of Zinc Fingers in proteins that have them: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zinc_finger
A Zinc Finger requires two "C" amino acids and two "H" amino acids to be placed in the right positions. It requires a few other things, but these are the necessary features of a Zinc Finger.
This is the amino acid sequence of human ZNF136: https://www.uniprot.org/uniprot/P52737.fasta
There are 13 zinc fingers in the ZNF136 protein and these are their sequences:
To visualize the critical amino acids, see the protein sequence here with highlights on "C" and "H" amino acids. Note one of the lines is not exactly like the other lines in that it is missing a "C", and is thus considered a degenerate zinc finger. So there is 1 degenerate zinc finger and 13 functional ones.
Hopefully it is apparent that the regular appearance of "C" and "H" is a violation of the law of large numbers, hence this pattern is not due to random mutation.
The Darwinist explanation of this pattern is segment duplication and natural selection. But Darwinists show rather flimsy critical thinking skills in their explanation of this repeating pattern.
To understand why, let the reader ponder the alignment I made of the Zinc Fingers in the ZNF136 protein using MEGA 6.0/MUSCLE software:
This is the distance matrix generated by MEGA 6.0 which measures the number of nucleotide and percent differences between the zinc fingers.
All of the above results are reproducible, so I leave it to interested parties wanting to confirm the results to do so.
So the duplications are not exact. Ok, so the Joe Darwinsit will say, "well one zinc finger was duplicated and then later changed their 28 amino acid sequences." The problem with that is if there is random mutation, why are the Zinc Finger's preserved and not erased? To preserve the "C" and "H" positions they need to be at least under selection. But then one needs to invoke a just so story that a newly minted zinc finger has function.
Furthermore, why is the supposed copied segment repeat exactly 28 amino acids, which would require 84 nucleotides? Not only must the 84 nucleotides be copied, they have to be inserted in the right place, otherwise disaster happens.
So what do zinc fingers do? Well, among other things they bind to DNAs regions including DNAs such as ERVs!!!!
Here is a conceptual depiction of a KRAB-ZNF Protein with a mere 4 zinc fingers binding to DNA. Look for the bubble with the word "KRAB" and "KZNF" (for Krab Zinc Finger):
Note the four "ZN" fingers attaching to the DNAs! So this is a hypothetical KRAB-ZNF protein that has 4 fingers to grab a SPECIFIC pattern of DNA. The KRAB-ZNF protein is part of an incredibly complex machine that does chromatin modification. This KRAB-ZNF is like a read/write head acting on Chromatin. Chromatin itself is an amazing mind-boggling design akin to computer ROM and RAM in one!
Random insertion mutations and point mutations would disrupt the binding of an already operational zinc finger. Adding and preserving new zinc fingers through natural selection would entail having fortuitous DNA targets that make the new zinc finger functional.
This is like making random changes to a lock (a complex zinc finger protein) and expecting a random key to open it!
Finally why are the Zinc Fingers slightly different in sequence? It turns out there is a Zinc Finger code!
To target a section of DNA, the zinc finger must be tuned to target it. Think of the zinc finger like lock and DNA as the key that fits into the lock! In fact, for both the study of biology and medical applications, humans have a desire to make their own zinc fingers -- like lock smiths.
There is a website that helps researches construct the right amino acid sequence to make a zinc finger with a particular DNA target:
In sum, there is a violation of the law of large numbers in KRAB-zinc finger proteins like ZNF136 which is not explained by random mutation, random segment duplication, nor natural selection. Some other mechanism for the emergence of such proteins is indicated. Given the importance of such zinc finger proteins in the control of ERVs which are important in the stem cell pluripotency regulatory circuits, this is even more of a miracle.
[I'm invoking ARN Rule 9 and am banning people from this thread who are on my block list from participating. If they want to object to anything I say, they are welcome to start their own thread and run it according to their rules and say whatever is on their mind. They can even ban me from their threads!
A list of people on my block list is here: https://www.reddit.com/CreationEvolution/comments/alkjl6/policy_on_who_i_ignore_and_an_offer_to_sincere/ejkv9id/ ]
submitted by stcordova to CreationEvolution

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